Sunday, August 30, 2015

Paris, Part 2

When the rest of the family left for Scotland, I left for Croatia.  I just happened to fly to Croatia via Paris . . . and have a 2 day layover.  It is the first time on the trip I have not had some agenda and I took full advantage of it.  I wandered through the Friday morning street fair, admiring the variety and quality of fresh food you can find within 1 city block.  I found a few parks that were beautiful and basically enjoyed journaling and reading while surrounded by humanity. 


Jardin du Luxembourg
Les Invalides
It continues to amaze me how much the United States has saturated the culture here.  The stores and radio stations play American music, 1 out of 2 movie posters is a Hollywood blockbuster, and you find English words sprinkled into the conversations and signs all over town.  We dominate the world in so many ways, and I feel like my American friends have no idea.

Do you think babysitting is a French word?


Oh, and I ate well while I was here :)   

I enjoyed street fare crepes,  homemade sandwiches made from the meat and cheese from the market, and a couple of traditional French multi-course meals.  Well, they were sort of traditional.  During the last 5ish years; Paris has undergone a revolution against the very traditional definition of a good restaurant.  For decades, it was Michelin that determined the quality of a restaurant, and therefore the skill of the chef in this food-centered country.  Happily, post revolution, there are now many small, very non-fancy bistros run by some of the best chefs in the world that will cheerfully serve you phenominal food with a glass of wine for under 35 Euros.  Did I mention they are not fancy?  The good ones are super popular and require advanced reservations for dinner even though they look more like bars than restaurants:  But I could get into almost anywhere at lunch.  And did you know that couple who runs Septime just opened a new restau down the street?  If you're ever in Paris, check out LeFooding.com or google "bistronomie" before you go.

Fish so fresh it melts in your mouth!  With blackberries and radish


Next stop: Split

Saturday, August 29, 2015

Stavanger, part 1

I took a rest day at my Aunt and Uncle's house in Stavanger.   It was still dusk at 10:00 when we got in that night.  You could still make out the Fjord in the distance from their living room and you can see the North Sea in the daylight.  Weather here changes so quickly that the views seem to change hourly.   Roger told me during June here in Southern Norway,  the sun sets for only ~5 hours but the extended dusk and dawn mean there are only about 3 hours of true darkness.    In the winter, it is the reverse.  We woke to cows mooing from the dairy's pasture downhill from their house.

One view from the house

Another view from the house
 The food was also fun.  Roger cooked delicious dinners (salmon, sea trout, cod and reindeer) and shared his fabulous bar, including a taste of 25 year old Scotch.  The produce was surprisingly good.  I didn't expect much to grow in the short Norwegian growing season, but strawberries and other produce apparently thrives in the long daylight.  It's been a while since I have lived abroad.   So I also got to remember how to play the grocery store/refrigerator guessing game:  "Is this Milk? It's labeled Melk and there's a picture of a cow on it - that looks right doesn't it?"  

We took a boat tour of Lysefjord on day 2 and the captain really got us close to as much as possible.  He pulled up next to seals sunning themselves on rocks and he got the ferry close enough to a waterfall that we could fill up cups with the fresh Norwegian mountain water.  I was amazed how close the boat could get to the land, but the rock islands must have plunged into the water as dramatically as the cliffs rose out of it.  The glacier-cut cliffs seemed to defy gravity in many places. 
 
Roger and Leslie were extremely generous hosts and I look forward to seeing them again when I come back in a couple of weeks.  I also loved getting to spend time with the rest of the Watkins clan, including staying up until 3 in the morning drinking and talking on the porch while admiring the view.  I am blessed to have such a great family.

Downtown Stavanger


The cliffs all around us from the ferry

We got close enough to fill up a bucket of water
The geography and landscape in Norway








Thursday, August 27, 2015

Duty Free "savings"

I think I am going to start blogging more frequently with little tidbits because the pictures are turning out to take forever to upload.  I thought the Duty Free experience was interesting enough to share.

As mentioned in the last post, we went perfume shopping at Chanel in Paris.  (I did not buy anything on my backpackers budget but thoroughly enjoyed the experience with everybody else)  The clerk quickly pointed out the sales were eligible for Duty Free treatment.  They filled out the necessary paperwork for everybody, including the passport numbers of the buyers, and sent us of with instructions to scan the bar code at the airport (presumably as we left the country).  Sure enough, there was a little kiosk in the international terminals (2E and 2F) that lets you scan the barcode and drop the pre-paid envelope in the mail.

Just out of curiosity, I checked the price in the Duty Free store in the airport.  It was the same price as in the store, with no tax.  That means they took your savings from avoiding the ~20% VAT tax and just marked it up by that much! The price to the consumer is the same, but you would be better off to have bought it on the street and turning in the paperwork to actually get the tax savings.  If you buy at a vendor that knows what they're doing, like we did, then it literally took seconds to scan and mail after finding the kiosk. 

No idea if this is true for the rest of the merchandise in the store.  There must be some savings occasionally because the Duty Free store we passed on the way out of the terminal in Stavanger has random basic toiletry items since the tax on these is so high in Norway. 

I'll still fill out the paperwork and get the refund when possible.

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Paris, Part 1

I just spent 2 days in Paris with the Watkins.  It's the same crew as Normandy: Andrew, Catherine, Leslie, Roger, Walter, Nan and myself.  We even got to meet one of Andrew's friends from school, Asma.  

Paris really is a beautiful city.  Until Andrew told us the story, I did not know that the uniformity of the architecture was due to George Haussman, who convinced Napoleon the 3rd to knock down and rebuild the city block by block.  The result is wide avenues with sidewalks full of pedestrians and an architecture.  It's also so full of history.  There are churches and monuments on every corner.

This whirl-wind 2 days truly covered the American in Paris experience from top to bottom.  Our days started with breakfast at a Parisian cafe, ended with dinners and wine at a fine restaurants, and were loaded with plenty of architecture and history in between.  We walked the Champs Elysee and admired the Arc de Triomphe by night, visited the Louvre (and had the best French Onion soup I've ever tasted there), soaked in La Chapelle and Notre Dame, walked down the Left bank, strolled through the Luxembourg Gardens, had a drink at the Les Deux Margots, climbed the Eiffel Tower, visited the Opera House, and shopped at Chanel.   It was a very full 2 days!   (A side note: Our extremely kind and attentive sales clerk at Chanel pampered us for an hour, let us take pictures in the famous Chanel foyer, filled bags with freebees and said goodbye to us with "Thank you to the United States for your 3 heroes. [who foiled a terrorist plot on a train earlier in the week]")  

I'll let the pictures below and their captions do the talking for the famous sites we saw, but . . . there is one more typical Parisian tourist experience that deserves capturing: pickpockets.    

Just for a little background, Walter is a Ft Worth Police Officer and stands out in a crowd.  Let's just say he is neither small nor quiet.  We were all taking the metro on our last day in Paris (another must-have Parisian experience) to pick up our bags from the hotel before heading to the airport.  As we were boarding the train, I heard Leslie say something like, "Help, she's stuck in the door." Sure enough, there was a tiny young woman who had her hand/forearm wedged in between the doors and was desperately trying to get through them.  The doors wouldn't budge.  Then I hear Walter bellow, "She has my wallet!! " Three other girls about the same size and age as the first were standing just outside the subway car doors, watching the plight of their friend.  As soon as Walter yelled, one took off running.  Walter pried those doors open like they were toys and took off after the fleeing thief. To add to the bedlam, Nan starts screaming for the Police at the top of her lungs.  (Roger later claimed that he had not seen his brother move that fast since high school football).  I take off after Walter, assuming he is about to get separated from anybody else that can speak the language or get him to the airport. 

I catch up to him in the subway exit tunnel where he has apprehended (and I do mean apprehended like he was on duty in Ft Worth) the fleeing girl who kept protesting in French "It wasn't me!"  He was hauling her by the arm the short distance back to the platform where the train was miraculously still there.   When we turned the corner, I saw the rest of the family holding the doors open and a stranger trying to hold on girl who had been attempting to get out of the train car.  This stranger, Stranger #1, had grabbed her by the wrist and was struggling to hold on.  I watched her slide out of her long sleeve shirt and start walk/running to the exit in her bra in an attempt to escape justice.  Stranger #1 was left holding a shirt, which he threw after her in disgust.  Roger called out to us, "We've got your wallet." So Walter turned loose of his prisoner and hurried back onto the train that was threatening to leave.

Weirdly, the stranger who tried to help us also got back on the subway was chastised in French by another apparent stranger for getting into the middle of the chase, until Stranger #2 realized that I also spoke French and shut up.  Stranger #1's response was simply "Thieves are bad for us all."

Our family debriefed and the story emerged that one of the other two girls by the door had been passed Walter's wallet and realized this deal was going South quickly.  So she tossed the wallet back through the doors into the train and took off.

Walter and Nan rode an adrenaline high for hours after that encounter.  To top it off, we had to turn around and get back on the metro to go to the airport, this time with all our luggage.  Walter and Nan were in Viking mode with "don't mess with me" looks painted on their faces until they finally relaxed on the plane out of Paris.

Lessons learned on avoiding theft in Europe:

  1. The safest place for your passport is at your hotel.  If, for some strange reason, you absolutely feel the need to carry it with you then separate it from your money and credit cards.
  2. Beware of groups of little people bumping into you, especially in the southern countries where pickpockets are plentiful.  It's usually a distraction.  Along those lines, stay aware of your surroundings by looking around.  They usually pick on people that they consider easy targets, such as tourists.  
  3. Keep your hand on anything valuable that you don't want to lose, such as a purse.  Walter had (correctly) put his wallet in his front pocket and probably still would have lost it if Leslie had not inadvertently blocked the thieves exit. 
  4. Don't mess with a cop from Texas! 
Alls well that ends well, and we'll definitely be retelling about the story of Walter's police work in Paris at every subsequent family gathering.

Thank you to Roger in particular for all the research and planning that went into this trip.  It was an unforgettable French adventure!

The view from our hotel
Why, Yes!  That is the Eiffel Tower
Arc de Triomphe by night
from the Champs Élysée

The view from the line into the Louvre

In one of the magnificent
Louvre galleries

Walter was big enough to
brave the crowd and get a
shot of the famous portrait

Walking to Notre Dame along the Seine

Views of Notre Dame from
the Left Bank






















The rose windows inside
Notre Dame
















The Louvre

Crown Jewels at the Louvre

Even the ceilings are
beautiful at the Louvre

Saint Chapelle is only ~100 ft long
These windows are over 50 ft tall!

The windows wrapped all the way
around this tiny, 35 ft wide chapel

Strolling through the huge
Parc de Luxembourg

Kids playing with the sailboats
in the fountain in the Parc

From the top of the Eiffel Tower
We saw 1 proposal at
midnight and listend to 1
birthday serenade at 12:01 

View from the bottom of
the Eiffel Tower

Me and Walter
in front of The Opera







Inside the Chanel foyer
Don't mess with this dude!

Our last dinner in France together
(L to R) Andrew, Asma, Leslie, Roger, Catherine,
Nan, Julie and Walter























Next Stop: Stavanger




Normandy

My first stop in Europe was to visit Normandy with my family.  My Uncle Roger is stationed in Norway and they graciously allowed me to join in on a trip to Paris they had already planned.  At the end of the day, there were seven of us: Roger and Leslie with two of their children (my cousins Catherine and Andrew) and Roger's mom (Nan) and brother (Walter) and me.  It was the first time in Europe for 2 of our party and the first time in France for 3.

Normandy was a cross between a sobering history lesson and an introduction to the northern French gourmand lifestyle.  We visited battle sites enshrined in history during the daytime and ate exquisitely  prepared 3 course meals with Calvados and wine at night.  I could wax poetic about French food for hours, but won't bore you in this blog.  Let's just say they're famous for their food for a reason.  It was fun watching others discover French food for the first time.  Why Yes! This bread really is better than any you've ever had before!

Some memorable moments from Normandy include:
- The organ player at St Mere Eglise taking requests from Nan after he heard her talking reverently about the organ.  (She then got another concert at the cathedral in Bayeux!)
- Looking over the side of Pointe du Hoc where the marines scaled cliffs to disable the guns aimed at Omaha and Utah beaches, and then held the point for 2 days.
- Dinner by the sea at the fabulous sea-side hotel that Roger found for us.  And the dinner the next night up the road.  And lunches.  We did not have a bad meal on this trip!
- Talking with the proprietor of Calvados and Pomme aperitif distillery while tasting his wares
- "I don't like red wine, but . . . [3 glasses later] . . . this stuff is really good!" - Walter


Our first meal in France together

Over 9000 Americans are
buried at this cemetery that
France has donated to us
Point du Hoc Ranger Monument
Of the 225 Rangers that left ships
to attack Point du Hoc, only 90
men were still able to bear arms
when the relief force arrived
2 days later

Our hotel overlooked one of the British
beaches.  The transports sunk in
the distance are juxtiposed with the
vacationers sailing and
enjoying the beach today

















Military Men
Army, Air Force and Marine

The organist at St Mere Eglise
plays for Nan




These two really know how to show
you a good time!
Kir Normande and Wine to
accompany each course. Dinners
 in Normandy were always good






















My grandfathers are both WWII vets.  The two of them survived and I am alive and visiting a democratic France today because of it.  It makes you wonder what the world would look like if the 10,000 young men had not died to gain the toe-hold on Continental Europe on the beaches of Normandy on June 6, 1944.  Or if the next 40,000 young men had not died in Normandy after the first day of the invasion.  The price of freedom seemed very large standing among the graves in the American Cemetery.  I had been to this cemetery before, but it takes on a whole new perspective when you see it through the eyes of current and former military men.  

If the numerous monuments, plaques and memorials are any indication, the French people are very grateful to their liberators.  Even the stained glass windows of the church St Mere Eglise contain words of thanks. 






Next Stop: Paris 

Saturday, August 22, 2015

Oklahoma City

My last few stops in the US were to visit family before flying to France.  First was a day in Oklahoma City to visit my friend Erin and her family.  She is my sister in spirit and because my parents have pretty much adopted her.  Then it was on to Longview and Houston to see my Mom and Dad right before flying out.  

It was great to see Erin at home and shaping young minds.  Her adorable son, nieces and nephews as well as her students benefit from her creativity and tireless drive to give them a good life.  

Mom and Dad, as gracious and caring as always, sent me off with love . . . and gratefully without verbalizing any fears they have about their daughter flying to foreign places without a return ticket.  They have been through this several times before with their kids.

Love you all!

Erin and Mike are so creative!
They made this playboard for Corbett
Everybody loves a little red wagon ride



This picture is a longstanding tradition between me and Erin
The addition of Corbett is a good one :)

Next stop:  France

Sunday, August 16, 2015

Chicago

Some of you may wonder how I hid my love for camping from you so effectively all these years.  Erik was such a city mouse that I just didn't do it while we were together.  I do love nature, and thoroughly enjoyed reconnecting with the great outdoors after a 10 year drought.

But I also love civilization.

I love fancy restaurants and good wine.  I love witty, well-prepared entertainment.  I love talking to intelligent, creative people who are doing interesting things.  I love hearing viewpoints from people coming from many different walks of life.  And I love creature comforts like long showers and nearby salons.  I like being able to walk to any store I need within a few hundred yards of my front doorstep.  In short, I also love cities.

So it was with great pleasure that I stayed 3 days with my brother, Will, in the Lakeview neighborhood of Chicago.  He's finishing up his PhD at Northwestern and I got to catch up with him and crash at his place while soaking in the city.

Chicago was bustling with 2.7 million people filled with the energy stored up during 9 months of cold and the stamina to maximize their 3 months of warmth before it turns cold again.  Will tells me it was a cold winter and a late summer this year - it was still 40 degrees in June!  So it's no wonder that everybody was walking, biking or sunning themselves everywhere we looked during the middle of August.  Will tells me there some kind of festival here almost every weekend during the summer, and I got to watch (and hear) the Blue Angels practicing for the Air and Water show this weekend.

The Blue Angels in formation
People enjoying the concrete beaches
along the lake

The parks in Chicago are meticulous and plentiful









The famous fountain
I saw the "show" 3 times coming and
going from the marina
















Chicago is widely acknowledged as a foodie city, second only to New York in this country.  Although I missed The Taste by a couple of weeks, we still got some amazing food at Naha - created by the James Beard award winning chef Carrie Nahabedian.  We noshed at Batter & Berries and La Creperie.  I had a fabulous Korean Taco.  There are countless more places I passed that I want to come back and try someday.

It was a lot of fun sharing fine dining with my student brother
who I hear is also a chocolate martini model 

French Toast Flight
The maple butter was incredible
so was the omelette (not pictured)





















Wednesday was a day of fun . . . we got to take out a boat on Lake Michigan and then enjoy the Cubs beat the Brewers.  I'm a member of a boat club back in Houston (Carefree boat club) and they have locations all over the country.  So it was easy to reserve a boat when I added Chicago to the itinerary.  We took out a lovely Searay Sundancer and I learned why Chicago is called the Windy City!  We had to climb over huge, rolling waves to get behind the breakwater barriers by the Navy Pier, where we could anchor and enjoy the city view over the water.  I would have thought it was just how Great Lakes behaved all the time, except I saw the same water calm as glass the next morning!

We got back in time to enjoy the 2nd half of a tight Cubs game.  Over hot dogs, beer and nachos, we cheered on the home team all the way to the end of the 10th inning when they hit a homer and the crowd went wild.

11 years after landing in in the windy city . . .
Chi-town from the water


Cubs game from the rooftop

What a game!




















My last night in Chicago, I finally got to watch Peter Sagal and crew tape this week's episode of Wait Wait  . . . Don't Tell Me! at the Chase Auditorium in downtown Chicago.  I had missed the traveling shows in both Austin and Houston and was thrilled to finally catch the recording in their tiny home auditorium.   It will be very interesting to listen to how they edit this one . . . I'll probably get to hear it from the car this weekend.
The audience-interactive section of the show

roughly translated:  He who lives
slowly lives healthier and longer
I even got to drop in on Vapiano after the show Thursday night.  For those of you who don't know it . . . I like the food here but LOVE the business model.  It's Italian food done by Germans so it is very very efficient.  I actually asked the owner what it would take to get involved with this chain after he opened the 1st one in the United States 5 years ago.  (The answer was $500K of my own money and experience in the restaurant industry . . . SOL!)  I hadn't eaten there since moving to Texas it was neat to experience it again.

While I was enjoying my pasta and wine, I ran into a couple of German students who seem to be doing my road trip in reverse.  I told them there was nothing to Mt. Rushmore and gave them lots of tips on Yellowstone.  They invited me to visit when I got to Germany.  It's a small world.


.Next Stop: Oklahoma City