Southwest Norway - yes, these pictures are real

In keeping with the tradition of visiting some of the most beautiful places on Earth during this trip . . . I returned to Norway to go hiking with a friend from college.  A few months ago, Colin heard I was going to Norway and Denmark and he jumped at the chance to visit his ancestral homeland. Unfortunately the earliest timing that worked for both of us was in mid-September, so I returned to Stavanger to meet up with him for a few days and take in some breathtaking scenery.  The plan is to gradually work my way south from Norway over the rest of the fall.

We hiked up to Preikestolen, drove the Discovery Route from Stavanger up to Odda and Rosendal, and then tackled the mother of all day hikes: Trolltunga!  before returning to Stavanger for our flight to Denmark.  Thank you again to Leslie and Roger for their hospitality, wonderful cooking and company in Stavanger!

The trailhead is clearly marked

Nothing but up for a little while

Our day hiking to Preikestolen was sunny and warm despite all the dire weather reports.  We were both prepared for cold rain and had to peel off layers on the vertical climb up to the famous flat rock.  After a quick hour and a half drive, including ferry and bridge crossings, we made it to the trailhead of Preikestolen.  Then it was mostly uphill for 2 hours - well worth it because the views of Lysfjord were spectacular!

The views from anywhere on this trail are amazing

Colin on the edge

From the top of Preikestolen

We even picked up a couple of hitchhiking German girls on our drive back to Stavanger.  The two students/tourists didn't seem put off by our colorful rental car or the goofy jokes that kept Colin and me giggling all the way back. In fact, they convinced us that the drive to Odda and Trolltunga hike were worth doing.

So the next day, Colin and I set out for Rosendal, which was the closest place to the Trolltunga trailhead that we could find to stay on short notice.  We took the Discovery Route and only got turned around a few times despite the fact neither of us had a Norway data plan or map.  When we weren't admiring the copious rainbows or waterfalls, we were singing along to 80s songs and laughing at the funny things along the way . . . such as Julie stalling the car in the middle of the road or the lack of spacial common sense by Norwegian road-makers.

A view from the drive

Tunnels everywhere!!
The longest one we went
through was 13km (9miles)

Water so pure you can drink it

We stopped at Rodal to
see the stave church
And there is yet
 ANOTHER RAINBOW

Double falls that thundered

The waterfalls just kept
getting bigger and bigger.
Like the car Avis gave us?

We woke up early on day 3 and drove to the Trolltunga trailhead.  The Norwegians estimated the 22km roundtrip hike it should take 8-10 hours, and we barely had 12 hours of daylight.  After 4km, we passed signs warning you to turn back around if it was after 1PM.

The majority of the vertical climb comes in the first 2km, where the trail was just sticky mud over slippery rock from the rain and thousands of hikers during the summer.  It was disgusting climbing up and dangerous climbing down. Yuck!  After 2km, we got out of the trees and there were a lot more rocks to walk on.  They were still slick but at least you could see what surface you were stepping on most of the time.

The first 2km are straight up

Gross!

When we broke free of the trees, the views started paying off.  It was stark but beautiful terrain and I think we went through at least four climate zones on the way to the top.

View from about 3km in

Hiking in the clouds already

About half way to Trolltunga

We finally reached the top and watched the crowd of people climb gingerly out to the rock that gave this trail it's name.

Trolltunga before the clouds rolled in

Julie and Colin on Trolltunga

Then it was quick back to the bottom before it gets dark!  Dodge all the people trying to do the same thing who are slipping and sliding without the wonderful addition of Colin's hiking poles.  We made it to the bottom just in time to start the drive back in the daylight and catch the final ferry to Stavanger just before midnight.

Note no center line . . .
It's becasue there isn't room
for two cars on the road.
These people are crazy

The ferry by night

During our last few hours in Norway the next day, Colin and I pay a visit to the 3 Swords memorial in Stavanger.  It's a striking memorial on yet another fine, sunny day.  We have a theory: Norway publicizes terrible weather reports just to keep people away . . . because this country is beautiful.

Next Stop: Copenhagen