Copenhagen

Bikers everywhere  - They have
their own lanes, their own stoplights,
and generally own the roads

Copenhagen was a comfortable and stylish stop in Denmark.  Everything was automated - from the luggage conveyor belt in the airport that automatically sensed when there was a gap to drop another bag, to the metro that ran about every 4 minutes automatically.  It's a clean, efficient, and very livable place that's laced with canals and bike lanes.  And, like Norway and Croatia, it's apparently a very honest one.  The trains and metro tickets worked off the honor system and the zillions of bikers cruising around the city trustingly employed only wheel locks when they prop their bikes up and walk away.

The opera house

The royal family of Denmark
 . . . and me

The city is small enough to be accessible and old enough to have a lot of culture to offer to tourists like us. Everything in this city seemed to be named after one of their kings who are all named Christian.  There was Christiansbourg, Christians Havn, Cristiana . . . you get the picture.  Denmark's is the oldest royal family in Europe and the many elaborate palaces, towers and gardens are testimate to the wealth they wielded in the past and present days. 

Thrones in Rosenborg

The crown jewels display
includes some very fancy guns

We spent our days wandering around the palaces, museums and parks and our evenings enjoying food and drinks.  We toured Christiansborg (the tower, the royal chambers, the ruins and the stables), admired the Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Saviours Church), wandered through Christiana without taking pictures of the pot dealers, paid our respects to The Little Mermaid, gaped at the royal riches at Rosenborg, savored the food in Ny Havn, admired the many boats along the canals (Colin is also a sailor), wandered through the Gliptotek, strolled the famous Stroget, circled the Opera House and Playhouse, breezed through the National Museum, and ate our way through Paperoen.  One day, we met up with one of Colin's friends, Nanna, who agreed to show us her city . . . except we ended up showing it to her :) 

Nanna, Colin and Julie in Ny Havn

Paperoen - a warehouse filled with
gourmet food trucks.  We need one
of these in Houston!

A view of the spires from Christianborg
tower

Pictures inside Christiana are still
verbotten because pot is technically
still illegal, despite the many dealers

A memorial to Danish soldiers

The humongous organ
at our Saviours Church -
Note the blue elephants

The famous and underwhelming
Little Mermaid

Nanna did introduce us to the traditional Danish curry herring open face sandwiches.  In fact, the food in Copenhagen was top notch, as you would expect from such a cosmopolitan city.  Our first meal was at a fancy restaurant that served modern Danish tapas and some of the best composed and executed drinks I've ever had.  It's a good thing we also enjoyed the free food and wine at the hotel or we would have felt the pinch of the Danish prices.  Thank you Colin for the hotel upgrade, the laughter and the companionship on this leg of the journey.  

It's official

Best. Bartender. Ever.
He's a PhD Biochemist candidate.  Drinks were
precisely prepared with syringes and beakers

Next stop: Belgium and the Netherlands

Southwest Norway - yes, these pictures are real

In keeping with the tradition of visiting some of the most beautiful places on Earth during this trip . . . I returned to Norway to go hiking with a friend from college.  A few months ago, Colin heard I was going to Norway and Denmark and he jumped at the chance to visit his ancestral homeland. Unfortunately the earliest timing that worked for both of us was in mid-September, so I returned to Stavanger to meet up with him for a few days and take in some breathtaking scenery.  The plan is to gradually work my way south from Norway over the rest of the fall.

We hiked up to Preikestolen, drove the Discovery Route from Stavanger up to Odda and Rosendal, and then tackled the mother of all day hikes: Trolltunga!  before returning to Stavanger for our flight to Denmark.  Thank you again to Leslie and Roger for their hospitality, wonderful cooking and company in Stavanger!

The trailhead is clearly marked

Nothing but up for a little while

Our day hiking to Preikestolen was sunny and warm despite all the dire weather reports.  We were both prepared for cold rain and had to peel off layers on the vertical climb up to the famous flat rock.  After a quick hour and a half drive, including ferry and bridge crossings, we made it to the trailhead of Preikestolen.  Then it was mostly uphill for 2 hours - well worth it because the views of Lysfjord were spectacular!

The views from anywhere on this trail are amazing

Colin on the edge

From the top of Preikestolen

We even picked up a couple of hitchhiking German girls on our drive back to Stavanger.  The two students/tourists didn't seem put off by our colorful rental car or the goofy jokes that kept Colin and me giggling all the way back. In fact, they convinced us that the drive to Odda and Trolltunga hike were worth doing.

So the next day, Colin and I set out for Rosendal, which was the closest place to the Trolltunga trailhead that we could find to stay on short notice.  We took the Discovery Route and only got turned around a few times despite the fact neither of us had a Norway data plan or map.  When we weren't admiring the copious rainbows or waterfalls, we were singing along to 80s songs and laughing at the funny things along the way . . . such as Julie stalling the car in the middle of the road or the lack of spacial common sense by Norwegian road-makers.

A view from the drive

Tunnels everywhere!!
The longest one we went
through was 13km (9miles)

Water so pure you can drink it

We stopped at Rodal to
see the stave church
And there is yet
 ANOTHER RAINBOW

Double falls that thundered

The waterfalls just kept
getting bigger and bigger.
Like the car Avis gave us?

We woke up early on day 3 and drove to the Trolltunga trailhead.  The Norwegians estimated the 22km roundtrip hike it should take 8-10 hours, and we barely had 12 hours of daylight.  After 4km, we passed signs warning you to turn back around if it was after 1PM.

The majority of the vertical climb comes in the first 2km, where the trail was just sticky mud over slippery rock from the rain and thousands of hikers during the summer.  It was disgusting climbing up and dangerous climbing down. Yuck!  After 2km, we got out of the trees and there were a lot more rocks to walk on.  They were still slick but at least you could see what surface you were stepping on most of the time.

The first 2km are straight up

Gross!

When we broke free of the trees, the views started paying off.  It was stark but beautiful terrain and I think we went through at least four climate zones on the way to the top.

View from about 3km in

Hiking in the clouds already

About half way to Trolltunga

We finally reached the top and watched the crowd of people climb gingerly out to the rock that gave this trail it's name.

Trolltunga before the clouds rolled in

Julie and Colin on Trolltunga

Then it was quick back to the bottom before it gets dark!  Dodge all the people trying to do the same thing who are slipping and sliding without the wonderful addition of Colin's hiking poles.  We made it to the bottom just in time to start the drive back in the daylight and catch the final ferry to Stavanger just before midnight.

Note no center line . . .
It's becasue there isn't room
for two cars on the road.
These people are crazy

The ferry by night

During our last few hours in Norway the next day, Colin and I pay a visit to the 3 Swords memorial in Stavanger.  It's a striking memorial on yet another fine, sunny day.  We have a theory: Norway publicizes terrible weather reports just to keep people away . . . because this country is beautiful.

Next Stop: Copenhagen

Oslo

On my way to Stavanger, I stopped through Oslo briefly.  I was surprised by the diversity I saw there and the small size of the capital.  The internet tells me that Oslo has approximately 580,000 people in a country that holds 5 million people total.  (for reference, Harris County, Texas holds 4 million.) I literally walked from one side of the city to the other in a few hours, stopping to see almost all the sights there were along the way.  Unfortunately the Norwegian History museum was closed on Mondays, but I saw the Folks Museum, The Viking Ship museum, the famous Opera House, the fortress, Vigeland Park, lots of statues and even a Bohemian street fair.  

Oslo is a typical "big" city with lots of people from all over the world.  Modern, minimalist buildings sit next to traditional wooden ones.  And, unfortunately it was either raining or overcast the whole time I was here.  This is normal for Norway.  I flew from one of the poorest countries in the EU with over 200 days of sun to one of the richest with over 200 days of rain.

A view of Norway from the SBH

The wharfs outside of town hall

The Oslo opera house

Viking Ship museum

the ships were gorgeous

Map of the Vikings travels
Click to see a larger version

Vigeland Bridge Sculptures

Vigeland's main attraction

A traditional Norwegian Stave church
in the open air Folks Museum

EVERYTHING is made out of wood.
Painted wood bed from an ancient
farm village guesthouse

I say that I saw almost all the sights because the real attraction of Norway is the nature here, which I did not take the time to see around Oslo.  It's clear the outdoors are extremely important to people here.   In fact, I would have purchased a ton of outdoor gear it wasn't so crazy expensive in this country because the selection and quality of outdoor gear is incredible! 

The few folks I talked to also clearly adored their outdoor activities:  signs for 'Norway, home of skiing' were in second hand markets and everybody walks around wearing clothes that look like they could hop straight from the office to a mountain trail without batting an eye.  (Norway has a lot of mountains)  In fact, you can the metro runs all the way to a huge natural forest.

It made me wonder . . .  is everybody in Norway active?  So I entertained myself during the day on my own in Oslo by looking for an overweight Norwegian.  It's a little morbid . . . I know . . . but I couldn't find one!  Keep in mind, I was walking all around town all day so I came across A LOT of people.  It took over an hour to find somebody with a paunch, and then he turned into the same museum as me, speaking English.  Tourists don't count.  Neither do the women I saw walking around in headscarves - they are also clearly imported.  After 24 hours of casual searching, I saw a grand total of 1 man and 2 women who may have more than 20% body fat.  Way to go Oslo.  Your people look good even if your city doesn't.

Next stop: Southwest Norway - Stavanger and some beautiful hikes

Sailing the Dalmatian Islands

I just spent one blissful week on a boat cruising up and down the coastline of Croatia.  Words cannot describe the beautiful scenery of this part of the world.  The water is impossibly clear.  The islands are stunning mountains rising straight out of the sea.  The people are warm.  And the food and wine is delicious.

Swimming hole at Maslinica

Our boat: reefed, heeling, and loving it!

This week, I joined an ASA (American Sailing Association) flotilla with 14 other people and we chartered 2 boats and sailed them ourselves.  I lived aboard a 54ft Beneteau with 6 of these folks as we island hopped for a week. It turned out I was almost the youngest member of the group, but we all loved to sail and to eat so we all had a great time.  Everybody ended the week feeling stuffed, tanner than we have ever been in our lives, and scheming about how soon we could come back.  


I have done this type of trip with friends in the British Virgin Islands (BVI).  That first trip was the event that initially piqued my interest in sailing.  There is nothing more relaxing than skimming across water with no sound except the wind and no feeling except the sun on your face.

Exploring Tito's submarine tunnel
psst - there is a secret passageway!

The surreal Blue Grotto from the inside

 On these week-long boat charters, each day is spent swimming in beautiful water, relaxing in the sun on some island beach, sailing from one island to the next, and/or eating great food with friends.  Your boat makes its own itinerary depending on what everybody likes . . . "Want more swimming time?  Here is another beautiful cove or beach where we can park for lunch and swim."   "Do you see that thing on shore?  Let's take the dingy to that island and go hike to it." "I hear there is a really good restaurant on this island.  Let's sail there today and make reservations for tonight."  There are so many things to do in these islands that you could sail around them for months and never run out of new experiences.  and the best part is . . . Its just you.  There are no cruise ship crowds.  There are no tour directors hurrying you back on board.  You can do whatever you want to all week long, stay as long as you want, and enjoy everything at your own pace without anybody else spoiling the party.

Traditional Lamb Dinner at a small
winery on the island of Vis

Dolphins decided to join us during our sail around Vis!

The Carribean and Dalmatian Islands both offer this kind of relaxing adventure from a boat.

Walk right off the back of the boat
into a quaint Croatian town

But the Dalmatian Islands enhances the experience by providing some of the most delicious food and wine I have ever had.  This week also differed from the BVI because we docked most nights at marinas.  That means we could walk off the back of the boat into a centuries-old town with showers and gourmet restaurants. Ken didn't have to go a night without his Croatian gelato.

Gourmet Dinner at Palmizana

Our ASA group had the distinct advantage of being led by Captain Jean De Keyser and his beautiful wife Mila.  They love to sail and to eat good food and the rest of us benefited hugely from their experience!  This was their 7th year to lead an ASA flotilla in Croatia and they seem to know all the restaurants and sometimes the people in every port.  Thank you for an amazing week!

Magic Winery

Hvar Town at night

FRESH fish prepared well

Exploring the fortress in Hvar Town

Views from Stiniva's Beach

Swimming in Stiniva

Sunset while sailing

Anchoring off the famous Bol beach

The windsurfers were having just as
much fun as we were having sailing

Sunset from town

Here is a rough map of how we chose to spend our week in the Dalmatian Islands.  

Please excuse my lack of artistic skills.

Trogir --> Docked at Maslinica
Maslinica --> Anchored at Submarine Tunnel --> Docked at Kut/Vis Town
Kut --> Anchored at Stiniva to swim --> Moored at Komiza
Komiza --> Anchored at the Blue Grotto --> Docked at Palmizana
Palmizana --> Anchored at some small cove on Hvar Island --> Moored at Stari Grad (dinner in Hvar town)
Stari Grad --> Anchored and swam at Bol --> Docked at Milna
Milna --> Trogir

Who is up for a trip in July of 2016?  I have a birthday coming and can think of no better way to spend it than with friends in Dalmatia! 

 I can captain the boat or I know a guy . . .